By Sam Nelson
Landscape Designer, Johnsons Landscaping Service, Inc.
www.JohnsonsLandscaping.com

When winter weather transforms your sidewalk and driveway into a dangerous skating rink, how do you melt the ice and snow without destroying your lawn and ornamental plants?  

The key is to choose an environmentally safer deicer, use it in moderation and according to instructions, and to apply it before it begins to sleet or snow.

All chemical deicers essentially work in the same manner, by lowering the freezing point of water.  The most common ice melter is sodium chloride (NaCl), otherwise known as good old-fashioned rock salt.  Its popularity can be attributed to its low price and wide availability.  However, since salt water still freezes at 0°F (or -18°C), it is of little help when the temperature falls below this point.  Rock salt can also be destructive:  it can corrode your car and your concrete walkway, and it can damage or kill your lawn and ornamental plants.    

A better bet is to use one of the alternative, safer salts on the market. These include Calcium Chloride (CaCl2),  Magnesium Chloride (MgCl2), and Potassium Chloride (KCl).  In general, these salts are more effective in reducing the freezing point of water to a lower temperature than rock salt, thus making them more effective in colder weather.  Moreover, they tend to be less corrosive to metals and concrete, and are safer for lawns and ground-covers.  Be sure to carefully look at the manufacturer's label for the listing of chemicals.

A newer, salt-free melting agent is calcium magnesium acetate (CMA), which is made from dolomitic limestone and acetic acid (the main compound of vinegar). This material has little impact on plants and animals, and is a good alternative for environmentally-sensitive areas.  Pelleted fertilizers containing ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate are sometimes also used for melting snow and ice, but these  tend to damage concrete more than the salts.  For locations where chemical deicers are not appropriate, sand, kitty litter, or gravel can provide some traction, but they will not melt ice or snow.

Whatever product you choose, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully and do not over-apply.  Too many people erroneously believe that if 8 ounces is good, then 16 ounces must be better.    Improper use of any chemical deicer may cause plant injury, which appears as drying, stunting, dieback, or "burning" of the foliage.  

For more information see: http://www.gardensalive.com/article.asp?ai=524&bhcd2=1259678711

(Sam Nelson is a landscape designer for Johnson’s Landscaping Service, Inc.  Learn more about Sam and see his landscape design featured in the Washington Post at http://www.jlsinc.net/view-by-tag/washingtonpost/. )

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By Ryan Sarvis

So you want to build a retaining wall in your yard?  There are many things to consider, including the type of stone, size of the wall, size of the footings, drainage, and the need for permitting, to name a few.   Here are the steps homeowners and contractors can take together to build a long lasting, aesthetically pleasing retaining wall.

There are a variety of materials to choose from when deciding to build a retaining wall. We in Maryland have an advantage because some of the best natural stone available is quarried in our own back yard.  Carderock is quarried and processed locally in Potomac, MD near River Road and Seven Locks Road.

                The advantage of using our native stone is that the color, texture, and size vary and no two stones are the same. The blues, grays, browns, and greens in the Carderock ages gracefully in any setting.  The classic appeal of Carderock conveys strength and beauty unmatched by none.

                There are two types of retaining walls that can be built with Carderock, dry stack and veneered walls.  A dry stack wall is one where we do not use mortar to adhere the stones together. The stone used is usually flat so it stacks better.  However, many of our customers' favorite walls are built with veneer stone.

The process for building a veneer wall starts with excavation for a "footing" or base of the wall. The size of the footing will grow depending on the height of the wall; however, it is important to check local building codes and permitting requirements prior to building the footers.   At Johnson's, we always expect our walls to meet or exceed local codes and regulations.  Our footings, for example, typically are reinforced concrete with rebar to tie the wall and footing together.  

Next we build an 8" cinderblock wall on top of the footing. At the time of the block wall's construction we install 1-2" pvc pipe passing through the wall for the drainage system. We then take the veneer stone and our expertly trained stonemasons "work the stone" for the best face and corners of the stone. High strength mortar is used to adhere the stone to the block wall. The purpose of working the stone is to have a final product that has small joints between the stone for a seamless appearance.

The top of the wall can be given a natural cap. A natural cap is a finished cap that matches the face of the wall, only with larger stones. By far our customer's favorite type of cap is flagstone. For the best appearance a thick Pennsylvania Blue Flagstone can be installed.  These caps will hang the wall's face by an inch, and add a great finish to the wall.

                The biggest enemy of retaining walls no matter the material is the natural elements. Water is the most destructive of them all. Hydrostatic pressure is the force exerted by water behind a wall that pushes on it. A properly constructed wall with correct "back filling" is a wall will last many generations. When the construction of the wall is near completion, a drainage system is installed behind it. This system has three main components - a perforated pipe, gravel back fill, and landscaping fabric.

 

The pipe is used to collect and direct water away from the wall. The gravel offers free movement of water behind the wall, therefore reducing the hydrostatic pressure. The landscape fabric is used to isolate the gravel from the existing soil and ensure that the drain pipe runs clear and does not become choked with silt in the future.  Also, any excess water that does not enter the pipe travels down and passes through the pvc weep holes and exits at ground level in the front of the wall.     

 

 

 

 

Through training and experience of our stonemasonry crews bring a passion for the highest quality product to your project. Our crews' produce some of the most enduring and beautiful walls in the area.

 

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Worried about your home's current value? Visit these links to learn how landscaping can help!

 

Lawn and Garden Equity

While studies show that you'll only recoup 80 to 90 cents on every dollar you spend to upgrade your kitchen or bath, professional landscape designers estimate that improvements to your lawn and garden can boost your home's value by 7 percent to 15 percent. Those findings have been confirmed by survey results from the Gallup Organization and the National Gardening Association, or NGA.

(read more)

 

Adding Value to Your Yard

Value added: Consumers perceive a home with proper landscaping to be worth up to 11.3 percent more than its assessed value, according to 1999 study by Clemson University. The same study found that the return on the landscaping dollar is more than 100 percent.

(read more)

 

It Pays to Clean Up Your Yard

"The whole trend for living outside is enormous right now" says Denis Flanagan, host of HGTV's One Garden, Two Looks and manager of membership services and PR for Landscape Ontario. "The garden has become an extension of the house."

(read more)

 

 Source:  http://www.nbcwashington.com/

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